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September 2009

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Subject:
From:
David Fahey <[log in to unmask]>
Reply To:
Alcohol and Drugs History Society <[log in to unmask]>
Date:
Thu, 10 Sep 2009 21:21:35 -0400
Content-Type:
text/plain
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When I mentioned vodka gaining popularity at the expense of gin, I had
in mind the flavored vodka martinis that my daughter likes.  What
happened to the unflavored gin martini?  Maybe this question simply is
a sign of old age. Yes, I remember the manhattan.

On 9/10/09, Dubiel, Rich <[log in to unmask]> wrote:
> All:
>  Couldn't it also be the case that G&T will have a future (or current)
> appeal with aging Baby Boomers, those folks who wish to be above the hip-hop
> and "clubber" culture. (They--we-are simply too old for that. It's now the
> time for a more reserved decadence.)
> Vodka, so I hear, is also the drink of hardcore alcoholics, especially when
> drunk straight from half-pint bottles. Not cool, whatever one's age.
>
> So, G&T may have a great appeal and solid future.
>
> God Save the Queen,
>
> Rich Dubiel
>
> From: Alcohol and Drugs History Society [mailto:[log in to unmask]] On
> Behalf Of Alan Joyce
> Sent: Thursday, September 10, 2009 9:08 AM
> To: [log in to unmask]
> Subject: Re: research for book about gin
>
>
> Dear David,
>
> My background- long past- was in Fine art and 'Critical/Philosphy of Art' so
> the following is by somewhat infuenced by my background in critical and
> cultural theory as oposed to clinical practice and research. But hopefully I
> may hit upon some themes that may prove of assistance in the project you are
> undertaking.
>
> Regarding Vodka's seeming displacement of gin- the prevalent myth that Vodka
> leaves no tell tale signiture on the breath may play a role in this - also
> that Vodka is now cheaper than Gin in most - UK outlets- may play a part
> albeit some of the observations below may at first glance appear contradict
> this.
>
> In addition- Vodka is reputed to have less hangover causing additives and
> bio-flavournoids than gin- hence it's reputation as the 'clean' spirit. Also
> it is- in itself relatively flavour neutral so mixers- usually containing
> sweeteners of one form or another are able to disguise the unpleasant
> 'taste' or spirit 'burn' more effectively than with other spirits-
> especially gin with it's distinctive juniper flavour and aroma.
>
> Another factor could be the 'decline and fall of the British empire' and the
> cultural legacy of British imperialism. G & T was the drink of the colonial
> 'caste and masters' - even in present day Britian G & T is -culturaly-
> associated with the middle classes- the inheritors of the Imperialist
> cultural legacy who still speak the 'Queen's Englsh' with a 'plum in their
> mouths' and have or in later life are likely to aqquire a blue rinse in
> their hair.
>
> By virtue of association this castes  Gin and-Tonic as the drink of a
> cetain-older- age & class group and attempts at re-branding and re-styling
> the product have met with considerable market resistance and proved far less
> succesful than similar excercises purveying new models and forms of Vodka.
> Even Vodka which has very strong added flavours have aqquired catchet
> irrespective of flavour.
>
> Vodka doesn't carry the cultural, class and imperial baggage that one could
> associate with Gin and re-branding has succesfully linked it with high
> profile role models of 'conspicuous consumption' - for example the high
> price Vodkas that contain 24ct Gold  'flakes'. Such variations on the Vodka
> theme may be prohibitively expensive but the drink retians an egalitarian
> image never the less. It's associated with 'meritocracy' as opposed to
> 'inheritocracy'.
>
>  If you an make it as a 'gang banger', hip hop artiste- dealer, theif,
> worker,  etc- then you too can buy into the brand and lifestyle image- that
> it's a simulacrum of the 'reality ' marketed- matters not- image is all for
> lads and girls on the pull.
>
> Crystal Champagne and high price,branded Vodka's are deemed the drinks of
> choice which maketh the consumer- the wo-man. The consumption of
> which-irrespective of the 'reality and poverty of daily life' signifies
> success, status and the simulacrum of wealth' even when the reality of
> wealth, social prestige and self empowerment is markedly absent. You can be
> as good as the rich man for the price of a bottle of branded vodka...
>
> G&T is linked with class and snobbery- Queens English, intonation, Harrods
> not Harvey Nichols, the Tatler and Country Homes not Vogue and living it
> large in style, the proms not urban dance music, jungle, hard core hip hop,
> guns, drugs and knives.
>
> Also- Vodka and cocaine consumption are often linked consumption of both is
> interelated and interactive. No one wants to be seen with a can a special
> brew in their hand- that's for 'alcies'- G& T is not even on the cultural
> register- but Vodka, Cocaine and Champagne- the three are deemed to go
> together. All are deemed 'clean' pharmakons and intoxicants- Vodka- in the
> UK doesn't carry the associations and baggage that it carries in Russian and
> ex Soviet/Warsaw Pact markets where it remains the staple cheap drink of the
> masses and carries a different kind of historical baggage.
>
> So I suspect that -despite attempts at re-branding -ergo 'Bombay Gin',
> 'Plymouth Gin ', etc,  it's distinctive juniper flavour as well as the
> cultural, mythological and class baggage that comes with the very
> enunciation of ' I''ll have large G&T my good man!' doom it to a has been
> status with Vodka winning out among the young as well as hard core booze
> hounds for it's reputed properties, cultural associations and plain good
> egalitarian so long as you can earn, beg, borrow, steal, the cash £$$$$$£££
> to buy into and consume the image.
>
> G&T is associated with age- Vodka has been re-branded with success- as a
> drink associated with high style , good living, youth. Certain other
> spirits- Tequila mescal, Absinthe, some up market brands of Brandy, &
> liquers carry or have succeeded in re-branding themselves but none so
> succesfully as Vodka.
>
> There may also be a racial undercurrent- G&T was the drink of white
> imperialism - a remedy for Maleria as recieved wisdom has it- Vodka is not
> only 'classless' but also wins out by virtue of being 'raceless' or rather
> having no associations with British Imperialism or being the drink of the
> dominant white ruling class/ caste. Unlike Gin, Vodka is relatively
> egalitarian and raceless- it's current popularity - in part- deriving from
> its sponsorship, consumption and relationship with urban dance music and
> culture
>
> I apologise for the lack of reference to an evidence base but then this is
> more related to a cultural reading, critique and my personal reflection's on
> this theme than to a researched evdidence base..
>
> Best wishes: Alan J
>
>
> About the same time that Jessica Warner published her book, Patrick
> Dillon published his on the gin craze.
>
> Didn't SHAD review a book on Dutch gin in West Africa recently?
>
> An aspect of the "global history" of gin that intrigues me is how
> vodka has largely displaced gin in mixed drinks.
>
> This book seems analogous to the innumerable commodities histories
> that have been popular of late.
>


-- 
David M. Fahey
Professor Emeritus of History
Miami University
Oxford, Ohio 45056
USA

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