WINES OF AMERICA

March 13-15^th 2001

One of the great benefits of being the wine educator at the University of Louisville is the vast amount of help given to me when required for class materials by the library staff. Teaching about the wines of United States proved such a case.

Topics discussed were: history of America, wine and religion in the United States, grape seminars  technical information from the wineries, and how wine is being developed in the states generally past, present and future. Both classes ran four hours approximately with just ten minutes for a break. Category listing  for effective sampling discussion was grouped so that specific topics could be raised in a organized fashion.

I opened the class with Erik the Viking exploits in 990 A.D., Captain Cook, Elizabeth 1, and Queen of England and why the Europeans settled the way they did geographically in the U.S.A.  Grapes were evaluated from the Vitis Lambrusca family to that of the Vinifera. (Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay etc). I interjected the Chambourcin grape (cross between the two), in the line up to open the subject of how this grape help solve the phylloxera crisis in the 1880s through Planchon discovery that American rootstock was able to resist the aphid if placed on vinifera rootstock.

Ted Huber fine work with Labrusca in the Knob hills of Indiana shows the capability modern technology and dedication can bring to what is often termed the ‘underclass’ grape family.’ My only concern is the finish on the wine (often termed”foxy”) that still needs some fine-tuning but he is eliminating it slowly with each vintage. His best white of course was the Vidal Blanc and red, the Hermitage Reserve that he now sells for fifty dollars to great success. A remarkable achievement in the age of the fine wine boom. He is presently embarking on growing the Cabernet Franc, which he hopes to sell in Louisville in seven years. I wonder if he can match Ted Horton or Barboursville in Virginia for quality here. We shall see. Ted is coming to the wine dinner at the Brown Hotel to meet Matt Perrone and Gilles Du Chambure, which should make for a stimulating if not, private and intellectual discussion on wine.

Wines used were:

Huber Winery Vidal Blanc 1999  (Indiana)

1.       Huber Orchard Winery  Catawba Rose  1999  (Indiana)

2.       Grenache Rose  Joseph Phelps  1998  (California)

3.       Rkatsiteli  Dr. Konstantin Frank  2000  (New York)

4.       Pinot Blanc  1999   Mirassou  (California)

5.       Pinot Blanc  1998  (Murphy Goode)  (Russian River)

6.       Fume Blanc  1999   Hyatt Vineyards  (Washington)

7.       Fume Blanc  1999  Murphy Goode  (Russian River)

8.       Fume Blanc Reserve  Robert Mondavi  1997  (Napa Valley)

9.       Pinot Gris  The Eyrie  Vineyards  1999  (Oregon)

10.    Pinot Gris  Rancho Zabaco  1999  (Sonoma)

11.    Viogner  Joseph Phelps  1999  (Napa Valley)

12.    Riesling  Jekel Vineyards  1999  (Monterey)

13.    Johannisberg Riesling  1999  Dr. Konstantin Frank. (New York)

14.    Chardonnay  Kendall Jackson  1999  Mendocino  (Barrel sample  1.)

15.    Chardonnay  Kendal Jackson  1999   Monterey  (Barrel sample 2.)

16.    Chardonnay  1998  Rancho Zabaco  (Russian River)

17.    Chardonnay  Hyatt Vineyards  1999  (Washington)

18.    Chardonnay  Murphy Goode  1998  (Sonoma County)

19.    Chardonnay  Eyrie Vineyards  1998  (Oregon)

20.    Chardonnay  Bonterra  1999  (Mendocino)

21.    Chardonnay  Estancia  1998  (Monterey)

22.    Chardonnay Show Reserve  1998  (Monterey) Mirassou

Group A:

Grenache Rose from Phelps in California and the Ohio grape Catawba from Ted Huber winery in Indiana. Choice was not difficult here, but fascination created a longer discussion than I actually planned for.

Group B:

Rkatsiteli Dr. Konstantin Frank 2000  (New York) R-Kat-sell-tally is the oldest known grape variety in the vineyards today. Talk about Malic acid content. This grape is recorded several thousand years before Christ. I discussed my own middle-eastern tour of ancient vineyards in 1988-1990 out in Lebanon, Turkey, Egypt (though more about beer shops there) Caucuses in southern Russia and the Black sea. Students liked this wine very much.

Group C:

Pinot Blanc  1999   Mirassou  (California)

Pinot Blanc 1998  (Murphy Goode)  (Russian River)

Two different styles of winemaking used to portray this grape with the Mirassou Pinot Blanc edging out Murphy Goode alternative lighter bodied version. Though used a lot for sparkling wines this tannic grape makes a very good low acid wine that is hard to find. Neither competes with Chalone for the highest quality but nevertheless it provides a good quality drinking wine for the hot summer months ahead. The Mirassou is more likely to age better, though the Murphy Goode does have better blending potential going by its lower acid and fruit content, killing the wine earlier as it stands.

Group D:

Fume Blanc  1999   Hyatt Vineyards  (Washington)

Fume Blanc  1999  Murphy Goode  (Russian River)

Fume Blanc Reserve  Robert Mondavi  1997  (Napa Valley)

Mondavi easily won this section with good fruit balance and multiple libations of vanillin coming from the oak, providing a nice rich finish. This grape certainly reflects how white wine consumption is changing from the endless Chardonnays on offer. Why I like featuring such a diverse collection from this grape is to show students how a white wine produces good clean, crisp acidity without the constant use of malolactic fermentation as seen so much with chardonnay. It is also a good lesson in barrel extraction that is not overly done.

Group E:

Pinot Gris  The Eyrie  Vineyards  1999  (Oregon)

Pinot Gris  Rancho Zabaco  1999  (Sonoma)

Good Pinot Gris are supposed to give a “drier” more unctuous taste though neither of these hit that mark. Hats off to the  ‘Mexican bandit’ named wine from Gallo whose misted (vodka style) bottle appearance created a lot of discussion in the class. It is a pity this wine inside it cannot live up to it.

Group D:

Riesling  Jekel Vineyards  1999  (Monterey)

Johannisberg Riesling 1999  Dr. Konstantin Frank. (New York)

Both wines different in style yet make great comparisons when educating on grapes. By a landslide Frank won the day. Both are very versatile that you can consume with or without food. Though considered by many in California as a third rate vine, Frank Johannisberg is definitely the best in the USA if not the world. Lake County has long been considered the best area for California, though the Finger Lakes in New York can and does compete with the finest German styles. Superbly crafted and though Jekel was a fine wine to consume, Frank totally spoiled the show by getting a total unanimous vote in favor of his steely, fruit cased production that hung around on the palate for minutes after consumption. Beautiful wine. One for the Jefferson Club.

Group E:

Chardonnay  Kendall Jackson  1999  Mendocino  (Barrel sample  1.)

Chardonnay  Kendal Jackson  1999   Monterey  (Barrel sample 2.)

Chardonnay  1998  Rancho Zabaco  (Russian River)

Chardonnay  Hyatt Vineyards  1999  (Washington)

Chardonnay  Murphy Goode  1998  (Sonoma County)

Chardonnay  Eyrie Vineyards  1998  (Oregon)

Chardonnay  Bonterra  1999  (Mendocino)

Chardonnay  Estancia  1998  (Monterey)

Chardonnay Show Reserve  1998  (Monterey) Mirassou

This part of the program lasted well over an hour with the history of the grape being discussed at length and what the winemakers are trying to do with the aid of aroma wheels. A good chardonnay must have balance, complexity and depth of flavor, which of course depends on the ripeness of the grapes. Here we presented wines that were either a product of stainless steel temperature controlled, oak injected, barrel fermented or malolactic fermentation. The further north you go from the equator the more acidity and mineral infusion you seem to find in the wine. Both fresh barrel samples sent by Kendall Jackson demonstrated this, though Monterey gave a more fleshy wine, with the Mendocino version falling away in fruit. I perceived a greater influx of residual sugar on the palate with the Mendocino style that gave it an off balance, and I was found desperately wanting. However; this certainly started interest in the country most successful Chardonnay, Kendall Jackson, since like Gallo for it huge production wines, where the general style as opposed to the more individualistic approach generally is practiced. Did I like it? Yes!  But it is by no means the best nor did I expect it to be. Why is it so successful? They have cleverly attuned all the hallmark qualities from the grape and softened sufficiently to allow inexperienced wine drinkers into the ‘den’. If you were starting out drinking wines, this would be a fine place to start though not for long. I am convinced like the Gallo-Sonoma enterprise, Kendall Jackson produces better chardonnay than their mass-produced versions. These wines when you get to them also have the advantage of avoiding the silly marketing of misted bottles to attract our attention. During the next five years like Gallo, I am going to try and expose Kendall Jackson as a world class winery either through the Jefferson Club wine list in Louisville or my classes at the university. Louisvellians need to understand how both wineries have developed wine as good as any for the price and like Frank in New York it is time the restaurants here ‘get over it’ and do the same.

So who actually got the vote?

1.       Showcase Chardonnay Mirassou 1998

2.       Chardonnay Murphy Goode 1998

3.       Chardonnay Hyatt Vineyards 1999

The organically grown Bonterra really has a difficult time finding its own when hit with so many other styles to choose from, though I do feel for Eyrie Vineyards in Oregon, whose splendid wine lost out by a mere three votes in the placing. It does have a good future in Kentucky with the right exposure. It needs to be worked hard by the reps followed by wine dinners in the right places.

RED WINES

1.       Generations  Huber Winery  1999  (Indiana)

2.       Duo  Estancia  1997  (Alexander Valley)

3.       Le Mistral Joseph Phelps 1997

4.       Syrah  Joseph Phelps  1997  (California)

5.       Merlot  Hyatt Vineyards  1997  (Washington)

6.       Merlot  Franciscan  1998  (Napa Valley)

7.       Merlot  Louis M. Martini  1997  (Napa Valley)

8.       Merlot  Sterling Vineyards  1998  (Napa Valley)

9.       Merlot  St. Francis  1998  (Sonoma County)

10.    Merlot  Joseph Phelps 1997  (Napa Valley)

11.    Pinot Noir  Eyrie Vineyards  1999  (Oregon)

12.    Pinot Noir  Dr. Konstantin Frank  1998  (New York)

13.    Pinot Noir  Jekel  1999  (Monterey)

14.    Pinot Noir  Beauna Vista  1998

15.    Pinot Noir Reserve  Fetzer  1998  (Santa Barbara)

16.    Pinot Noir Reserve  Mirassou  1998  (Monterey)

17.    Cabernet Sauvignon  Hyatt Vineyards  1997  (Washington)

18.    Cabernet Sauvignon  Louis M Martini  1997  (Napa Valley)

19.    Cabernet Sauvignon  Joseph Phelps 1996

20.    Cabernet Sauvignon  Grand Reserve  Kendall Jackson  1996

21.    Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve Fetzer  1996

22.    Zinfandel  Rancho Zabaco  1998  (Sonoma)

23.    Zinfandel  Franciscan  1998  (Napa Valley)

Group F:

The Duo  by Joseph Phelps, produced one of the biggest surprises of the night with an infusion of Sangiovese to the Cabernet Sauvignon that my good friends Matt Perrone or Pat Dodd would have been proud of. This is the first wine I have picked for the flight tasting at the bar in the Jefferson Club, where I hope to place it with Antinori Peppoli and Clemente V11 in 3 oz. glasses. On the other hand, the Le Mistral, a great strawberry, pepper mix that scored well with a Rhone style that played down the fruit as does the French, offering a great comparison to the Chapoutier style we all know so well. I did suggest in the class what a wonderful education for the students watching Kirk Helberg exquisite detail description technique being  placed on these two wines as an entertainment value and skill at work. 

Group G:

Merlot  Hyatt Vineyards  1997  (Washington)

Merlot  Franciscan  1998  (Napa Valley)

Merlot  Louis M. Martini  1997  (Napa Valley)

Merlot  Sterling Vineyards  1998  (Napa Valley)

Merlot  St. Francis  1998  (Sonoma County)

Merlot  Joseph Phelps 1997  (Napa Valley)

I told Susan Weinstein at Seagrams that I had been planning this section for two months and though the Merlot Reserve from St. Francis failed to show up for my class, again! It did not stop a real humdinger of a contest. Strong debate was met by me asking “Is there too Merlot produced in the United States? Explaining the clonal studies differences of Clone 3, 181, or the MLAPT clone-Pomerol, everyone was thoroughly enjoying the evening.

Top wines chosen were:

1.       Merlot Louis Martini 1997

2.       Merlot Sterling 1998

3.       Merlot Franciscan 1998

Unlucky Joseph Phelps who lost out by a single vote for a placing and the consistent Hyatt style, a hallmark to Greg Chappell fine winemaking techniques so far north. I personally favored the Franciscan over the mouthful of blackberries from St. Francis, which is so soft it’s almost too dangerous to touch in fear of drinking it like water. The Sterling though superb just cannot beat Louis Martini slightly lighter version opening an argument as to aging ability here. Sterling certainly favors the stainless steel high technology to produce fine wine, and of course experience of palate is must here. Hyatt was just swamped by the competitive nature of the evening, though it did vie well in the exposure, votes as well as future buyers. We shall persevere with Greg’s wine that’s for sure.

Group F.

Pinot Noir  Eyrie Vineyards  1999  (Oregon)

Pinot Noir  Dr. Konstantin Frank  1998  (New York)

Pinot Noir  Jekel  1999  (Monterey)

Pinot Noir  Beauna Vista  1998

Pinot Noir Reserve  Fetzer  1998  (Santa Barbara)

Pinot Noir Reserve  Mirassou  1998  (Monterey)

Always a very difficult but competitive section the clone UCD 5 long considered the finest clone for this grape faced others such as the Wente Clone, Martini Clone and the Mt.Eden which is disappearing into the mountains so to speak. Though one of the oldest grapes today I was fascinated to see how it has developed since Martin Ray exposition in Santa Cruz after the war and Hazell version that reigned during the 1950s (both I have drunk) had developed. Mondavi  now a master at the grape suffered for years (eight in fact) before he finally got it right.

The fight was between Frank and the Fetzer for favored style, (let us not forget we are at the basic level where some students spent up to three weeks of the course just learning to use the Noble Aroma Wheel). A tight section in vote form since many leaned from the Mirassou to Frank and back again benefiting Fetzer  with the split vote. The previous winner, Beauna Vista came a distant fifth, though that is no disgrace and a very nice wine. After forty minutes on all the vineyards this is how they turned out. Brown-Forman first outright victory in the class outside of the Creso wine from Italy in five years of teaching here.

1.       Fetzer Reserve Pinot Noir (Monterey)

2.       Chateau Frank Pinot Noir  (New York)

3.       Mirassou Pinot Noir Reserve  (Monterey)

Group G:

Carefully choosing three major styles this enabled tired palates some rejuvenation and it paid off.

Wines shown:

1.       Cabernet Sauvignon Hyatt Vineyards 1997  (Washington)

2.       Cabernet Sauvignon Louis M Martini 1997  (Napa Valley)

3.       Cabernet Sauvignon Grand Reserve Kendall Jackson 1996

4.       Cabernet Sauvignon Joseph Phelps 1997

The strongest challenger to the Phelps did not come from the expected Kendall Jackson version, but Hyatt, who never ceases to amaze me with their agreeability. Phelps won the day by a landslide, almost as big as Frank did with his Riesling and a must for the Jefferson Club. This is a wine that is so refined I am going to ask to present their Reserve collection in the fall. Great fruit extract, nice tannin vanillin and cassis feel which within five years will be unbeatable in its class. The wine of the night.

1.       Cabernet Sauvignon…Joseph Phelps  1997

2.       Cabernet Sauvignon…Hyatt Vineyards 1997

3.       Cabernet Sauvignon Grand Reserve… Kendall Jackson  1996

Group H:

For the last two years I had been hoping Gallo would bring to this table a stronger Zinfandel that reflects their talents in complexity and style. In return the ‘Mexican bandit’ and though the class enjoyed it immensely for me the Franciscan was the better-made wine. Peppery-aliened wine with all the fine characteristics that this grape produces. Gallo winemakers mastery of the sweet oak flavors softens the peppery tannins so associated with this grape. I totally disagreed with the students but through strong lengthy discussion they voted for the awful bottle appearance and easier drinking style. Who says this class is easy to teach?

1.       Zinfandel Rancho Zabaco 1998  (Sonoma)

2.       Zinfandel Franciscan 1998  (Napa Valley)

Classes closed at 10-30pm with students leaving even later around 11-30pm after taking down all the wines they tried and wish to buy. Exhausting!

See you next week.

Martin