Dear David,
My background- long past- was in Fine art and 'Critical/Philosphy of Art'
so the following is by somewhat infuenced by my background in critical and
cultural theory as oposed to clinical practice and research. But hopefully
I may hit upon some themes that may prove of assistance in the project you are
undertaking.
Regarding Vodka's seeming displacement of gin- the prevalent myth that
Vodka leaves no tell tale signiture on the breath may play a role in this - also
that Vodka is now cheaper than Gin in most - UK outlets- may play a part albeit
some of the observations below may at first glance appear contradict this.
In addition- Vodka is reputed to have less hangover causing additives and
bio-flavournoids than gin- hence it's reputation as the 'clean' spirit.
Also it is- in itself relatively flavour neutral so mixers- usually containing
sweeteners of one form or another are able to disguise the unpleasant 'taste' or
spirit 'burn' more effectively than with other spirits- especially gin with
it's distinctive juniper flavour and aroma.
Another factor could be the 'decline and fall of the British empire' and
the cultural legacy of British imperialism. G & T was the drink of the
colonial 'caste and masters' - even in present day Britian G & T is
-culturaly- associated with the middle classes- the inheritors of the
Imperialist cultural legacy who still speak the 'Queen's Englsh' with a 'plum in
their mouths' and have or in later life are likely to aqquire a blue rinse
in their hair.
By virtue of association this castes Gin
and-Tonic as the drink of a cetain-older- age & class group
and attempts at re-branding and re-styling the product have met with
considerable market resistance and proved far less succesful than similar
excercises purveying new models and forms of Vodka. Even Vodka which has
very strong added flavours have aqquired catchet irrespective of flavour.
Vodka doesn't carry the cultural, class and imperial baggage that one could
associate with Gin and re-branding has succesfully linked it with high profile
role models of 'conspicuous consumption' - for example the high price Vodkas
that contain 24ct Gold 'flakes'. Such variations on the Vodka theme may be
prohibitively expensive but the drink retians an egalitarian
image never the less. It's associated with 'meritocracy' as opposed to
'inheritocracy'.
If you an make it as a 'gang banger', hip hop artiste- dealer, theif,
worker, etc- then you too can buy into the brand and lifestyle image- that
it's a simulacrum of the 'reality ' marketed- matters not- image is all for lads
and girls on the pull.
Crystal Champagne and high price,branded Vodka's are deemed the drinks of
choice which maketh the consumer- the wo-man. The consumption of
which-irrespective of the 'reality and poverty of daily life' signifies
success, status and the simulacrum of wealth' even when the reality of wealth,
social prestige and self empowerment is markedly absent. You can be as good as
the rich man for the price of a bottle of branded vodka...
G&T is linked with class and snobbery- Queens English, intonation,
Harrods not Harvey Nichols, the Tatler and Country Homes not Vogue and living it
large in style, the proms not urban dance music, jungle, hard core hip hop,
guns, drugs and knives.
Also- Vodka and cocaine consumption are often linked consumption of both is
interelated and interactive. No one wants to be seen with a can a special brew
in their hand- that's for 'alcies'- G& T is not even on the cultural
register- but Vodka, Cocaine and Champagne- the three are deemed to go together.
All are deemed 'clean' pharmakons and intoxicants- Vodka- in the UK doesn't
carry the associations and baggage that it carries in Russian and ex
Soviet/Warsaw Pact markets where it remains the staple cheap drink of the
masses and carries a different kind of historical baggage.
So I suspect that -despite attempts at re-branding -ergo 'Bombay Gin',
'Plymouth Gin ', etc, it's distinctive juniper flavour as well as the
cultural, mythological and class baggage that comes with the very
enunciation of ' I''ll have large G&T my good man!' doom it to a has been
status with Vodka winning out among the young as well as hard core booze hounds
for it's reputed properties, cultural associations and plain good egalitarian so
long as you can earn, beg, borrow, steal, the cash £$$$$$£££ to buy into and
consume the image.
G&T is associated with age- Vodka has been re-branded with success- as
a drink associated with high style , good living, youth. Certain other spirits-
Tequila mescal, Absinthe, some up market brands of Brandy, & liquers carry
or have succeeded in re-branding themselves but none so succesfully as
Vodka.
There may also be a racial undercurrent- G&T was the drink of white
imperialism - a remedy for Maleria as recieved wisdom has it- Vodka is not only
'classless' but also wins out by virtue of being 'raceless' or rather having no
associations with British Imperialism or being the drink of the dominant
white ruling class/ caste. Unlike Gin, Vodka is relatively egalitarian
and raceless- it's current popularity - in part- deriving from its sponsorship,
consumption and relationship with urban dance music and culture
I apologise for the lack of reference to an evidence base but then this is
more related to a cultural reading, critique and my personal reflection's on
this theme than to a researched evdidence base..
Best wishes: Alan J
About the same time that Jessica Warner published her book,
Patrick
Dillon published his on the gin craze.
Didn't SHAD review a
book on Dutch gin in West Africa recently?
An aspect of the "global
history" of gin that intrigues me is how
vodka has largely displaced gin in
mixed drinks.
This book seems analogous to the innumerable commodities
histories
that have been popular of late.