All:
Couldn’t it also be the case that G&T will have a
future (or current) appeal with aging Baby Boomers, those folks who wish to be
above the hip-hop and “clubber” culture. (They--we—are simply
too old for that. It’s now the time for a more reserved decadence.)
Vodka, so I hear, is also the drink of hardcore alcoholics,
especially when drunk straight from half-pint bottles. Not cool, whatever one’s
age.
So, G&T may have a great appeal and solid future.
God Save the Queen,
Rich Dubiel
From: Alcohol and Drugs
History Society [mailto:[log in to unmask]] On Behalf Of Alan
Joyce
Sent: Thursday, September 10, 2009 9:08 AM
To: [log in to unmask]
Subject: Re: research for book about gin
Dear David,
My background- long past- was in Fine art and 'Critical/Philosphy
of Art' so the following is by somewhat infuenced by my background in
critical and cultural theory as oposed to clinical practice and
research. But hopefully I may hit upon some themes that may prove of
assistance in the project you are undertaking.
Regarding Vodka's seeming displacement of gin- the prevalent myth
that Vodka leaves no tell tale signiture on the breath may play a role in this
- also that Vodka is now cheaper than Gin in most - UK outlets- may play a part
albeit some of the observations below may at first glance appear contradict
this.
In addition- Vodka is reputed to have less hangover causing
additives and bio-flavournoids than gin- hence it's reputation as the
'clean' spirit. Also it is- in itself relatively flavour neutral so mixers-
usually containing sweeteners of one form or another are able to disguise the
unpleasant 'taste' or spirit 'burn' more effectively than with other spirits-
especially gin with it's distinctive juniper flavour and aroma.
Another factor could be the 'decline and fall of the British
empire' and the cultural legacy of British imperialism. G & T was the drink
of the colonial 'caste and masters' - even in present day Britian G & T is -culturaly-
associated with the middle classes- the inheritors of the Imperialist cultural
legacy who still speak the 'Queen's Englsh' with a 'plum in their mouths' and
have or in later life are likely to aqquire a blue rinse in their hair.
By virtue of association this castes Gin
and-Tonic as the drink of a cetain-older- age & class group
and attempts at re-branding and re-styling the product have met with
considerable market resistance and proved far less succesful than similar
excercises purveying new models and forms of Vodka. Even Vodka which has
very strong added flavours have aqquired catchet irrespective of flavour.
Vodka doesn't carry the cultural, class and imperial baggage that
one could associate with Gin and re-branding has succesfully linked it with
high profile role models of 'conspicuous consumption' - for example the high
price Vodkas that contain 24ct Gold 'flakes'. Such variations on the
Vodka theme may be prohibitively expensive but the drink retians
an egalitarian image never the less. It's associated with
'meritocracy' as opposed to 'inheritocracy'.
If you an make it as a 'gang banger', hip hop artiste-
dealer, theif, worker, etc- then you too can buy into the brand and
lifestyle image- that it's a simulacrum of the 'reality ' marketed- matters
not- image is all for lads and girls on the pull.
Crystal Champagne and high price,branded Vodka's are deemed the
drinks of choice which maketh the consumer- the wo-man. The consumption of
which-irrespective of the 'reality and poverty of daily life' signifies
success, status and the simulacrum of wealth' even when the reality of wealth,
social prestige and self empowerment is markedly absent. You can be as good as
the rich man for the price of a bottle of branded vodka...
G&T is linked with class and snobbery- Queens English,
intonation, Harrods not Harvey Nichols, the Tatler and Country Homes not Vogue
and living it large in style, the proms not urban dance music, jungle, hard
core hip hop, guns, drugs and knives.
Also- Vodka and cocaine consumption are often linked consumption
of both is interelated and interactive. No one wants to be seen with a can a
special brew in their hand- that's for 'alcies'- G& T is not even on the
cultural register- but Vodka, Cocaine and Champagne- the three are deemed to go
together. All are deemed 'clean' pharmakons and intoxicants- Vodka- in the UK
doesn't carry the associations and baggage that it carries in Russian and ex
Soviet/Warsaw Pact markets where it remains the staple cheap drink of the
masses and carries a different kind of historical baggage.
So I suspect that -despite attempts at re-branding -ergo 'Bombay
Gin', 'Plymouth Gin ', etc, it's distinctive juniper flavour as well as
the cultural, mythological and class baggage that comes with the very
enunciation of ' I''ll have large G&T my good man!' doom it to a has been
status with Vodka winning out among the young as well as hard core booze hounds
for it's reputed properties, cultural associations and plain good egalitarian
so long as you can earn, beg, borrow, steal, the cash £$$$$$£££ to buy into and
consume the image.
G&T is associated with age- Vodka has been re-branded with
success- as a drink associated with high style , good living, youth. Certain
other spirits- Tequila mescal, Absinthe, some up market brands of Brandy, &
liquers carry or have succeeded in re-branding themselves but none so
succesfully as Vodka.
There may also be a racial undercurrent- G&T was the drink of
white imperialism - a remedy for Maleria as recieved wisdom has it- Vodka is
not only 'classless' but also wins out by virtue of being 'raceless' or rather
having no associations with British Imperialism or being the drink of the
dominant white ruling class/ caste. Unlike Gin, Vodka is relatively egalitarian
and raceless- it's current popularity - in part- deriving from its sponsorship,
consumption and relationship with urban dance music and culture
I apologise for the lack of reference to an evidence base but then
this is more related to a cultural reading, critique and my personal
reflection's on this theme than to a researched evdidence base..
Best wishes: Alan J
About the same time that Jessica Warner published her book,
Patrick
Dillon published his on the gin craze.
Didn't SHAD review a book on Dutch gin in West Africa recently?
An aspect of the "global history" of gin that intrigues me is how
vodka has largely displaced gin in mixed drinks.
This book seems analogous to the innumerable commodities histories
that have been popular of late.